Monday, September 14, 2009

More of St Petersburg


When we first arrived in St Petersburg after our long flight via Paris, we quickly went to a supermarket close to the ship to buy milk, water and Coke for our trip. The prices were more or less the same that we pay for similar things in a similar shop - we paid 35 rouble for 500 ml Coke light = R8 - R9.
We had to cross a busy road and remember to look to the right first! There were trams in the middle of the street and people seemed to embark anywhere. It didn't look very safe to me. (We didn't see trams in Moscow, but there they have lots of trolley buses.)

The tram rails didn't look safe either. St Petersburg is a beautiful city, but there are many signs of neglect. Many buildings have peeling plaster - a rather strange phenomenon. I wondered whether the harsh climate had anything to do with it.

A rather dilapidated block of flats -we saw several of those. Apparently the average income is about R5000 per month. I guess it is about the same here in S.A. There is also severe poverty and hardship and unemployment. What amazed me, was that we did not see a single beggar or vendor in the street or windscreen washer at traffic lights. (Here you find them at all major intersections.)

And this ordinary looking building that we passed on our way to the Winter Palace? It used to be the headquarters of the K.G.B.! Who would ever have thought that we pass here without any fear? Apparently the K.G.B. did instill terror in every ordinary citizen's life: At one stage (Breschnev's time or Gorbachof's? Can't remember) the K.G.B. would go into cinemas and if they found a student bunking class, his parents would get fired after a 2nd warning! Our guide said, the University lecturers were surprised when all of a sudden, there was 100% attendance!

The Palace square - also called the Decembrists square between the General Staff Building and the Winter Palace. This is the place where, in 1905, the citizens protested that they had no food: they wanted to bring the plight of Russians to the attention of the Tsar (Nicholas II) but he wasn't even in St Petersburg at the time and his guards started to shoot the crowd. Remember Dr Zhivago? Sounds a lot like Sharpeville doesn't it?
The yellow building is the longest building in Europe: 700 metres!

The Winter Palace again. It is really so blue and magnificent as we have seen in pics before. St Petersburg was built by Tsar Peter the Great, so as to have a gateway to the Gulf of Finland. He was a remarkable man: He was very tall 6' 8" - exceptional especially if you think that he lived in the 17th - 18th century! He did everything in his power to modernise and Westernise Europe. He learnt shipbuilding in Holland (V.O.C time) and brought his skills to Russia. He became co-Tsar with his not so bright half brother, when he was still a child. He liked to play with soldiers - except his soldiers were boys and not toys. His child army later became a real, great army.

The grand staircase... Once ambassadors entered here to be admitted to the court. I would have liked to play Tsarina, but did not feel like one clad in jeans and surrounded with all the other similarly clad tourists. We had to buy a permit to take photos inside the palace and the Hermitage.

Jan in front of the throne of Nicholas 1.

This room is devoted to the victory over Napoleon in 1812.

This passage is an exact copy of a passage in the Vatican. The "frescoes" were copied onto fabric and this was attached to these walls - very well done!

Jan in the Vatican Hall - not the real name, but I can't recall exactly what it was called.

Jan in front of a Picasso painting. The State Hermitage is home to over 3 million pieces of art. It was started by Catherine the Great. She bought whole art collections to impress the rest of Europe, and since then the art museum has grown and grown.

This beautiful Smolny convent was built by Empress Elizabeth 1 (daughter of Peter the Great). At the end of her life she apparently wanted to become a nun and had this beautiful convent built, but she died before the building had been completed! Smolny means tar - it was built on the tar yard (for the ships) of Peter the Great. The building was never used as a convent, but later became a school for women of the nobility.

Sir Isaacs Cathedral: it was the largest cathedral in Russia at one stage. It took 40 years to build it, from 1818 to 1858. Under the Soviet government, the building was first abandoned, then turned into a museum of atheism! Praise God, today it is again a place of worship, albeit only in one portion of the church. (Jan was especially alarmed that so many churches are "dens of robbers.")

Statue of Tsar Nicholas 1. It seems to me he was the real villain in the history. His predecessor Alexander 1 introduced some reforms, but Nicholas 1 (1825 - 1855) was anti reform and came down on the population like a ton of bricks, making life really hard for serfs. (In his defense, whereas Alexander grew up in the time of enlightenment, Nicholas grew up in the time of the French revolutions and knew that ordinary people were the enemy and had to be kept in their place!) If only he had not been so autocratic, history could have been different - the seeds of discontent were really sown in his time.

Russian style weddings: Although our city tour was on a Wednesday, we saw many bridal parties, having their photos taken at historic landmarks - amidst the throngs of tourists! Like here, weekends are most popular for weddings, but since there are so many weddings, many people must be satisfied to marry in the middle of the week. The done thing apparently is to hire limousines to escourt the couple and other guests. Cars and limousines are decorated with wedding style white and pink ribbons and flowers and big golden rings. (We saw some with bright orange and red ribbons.)

A white wedding limousine - same party as the black Mercedes above.

Busy streets! In the background the Church of our Saviour on Spilled Blood. (See below.)

Our final stop in St Petersburg was this beautiful church, which was built in memory of Alexander 11, on the spot where he was assassinated.
Tsar Alexander 11 (1855 -81) was the good guy: he had emancipated the serfs (albeit that they still had considerable problems afterwards) and he was on the verge of forming some sort of parliamentary representation or Duma, when he was assassinated.
When his son Alexander 111 (1881- 86) came to power, he tore up those plans. The first Duma was only installed by Nicholas 11 in 1905, but by then it was far too late and a revolution was inevitable. (My thoughts: If only Nicholas 1 had not botched up reform, if only Alexander 11 was able to go through with his reforms.... the communist revolution might have been prevented!)

Our time in St Petersburg was far too short: if ever you go there, make sure that you have a few days and if ever you travel to Russia, make Moscow your last stop -it is the ultimate cherry on the cake!

8 comments:

Sandra said...

Dankie vir 'n kykie in die land met sy ryk geskiedenis. Die ou geboue is pragtig!

Is daar 'n "moderne" leefarea in die stad ook of is alles oud? Hier by ons is oud en nuut langs mekaar, hoe is dit daar?

Desire Fourie said...

Hi Miekie. Sjoe dis wonderlik om van tyd tot tyd te hoor en sien wat in ander vastelande aangaan. Jou fotos is pragtig en die storie daaragter maak dit nog meer spesiaal. Jy moet die fotos and jou storie nou net mooi kreatief scrap.
Mooi bly.

Thea said...

Baie interessant en lekker om Rusland deur jou oe te ervaar Miekie. Die argitektuur van hierdie land is ook baie besonders.

Jan and Miekie said...

Hi Sandra
Ons het nie 'n moderne leefarea in St Petersburg gesien nie - net woonstelle en die het nie te wonderlik gelyk nie. Ons was egter net 1 dag daar, so daar is seker. Die supermark waarin ons was, was ook maar so-so, maar dan is die supermarkte naby ons hawens seker ook nie te waffers nie. (Was nie die groot hawe nie.) In Moskou het ons baie meer nuut en oud langs mekaar gesien, maar dan was Moskou mos afgebrand en weer opgebou.

Hi Desire
Ek moet nog die blog ding probeer, maar ek weet nie of ek die geduld het nie...! As ek net sover sal kom om 'n paar fotos te laat druk (ek het net 'n mono drukker), sal dit al baie help! Ek bedoel ook om movie magic onder die knie te kry - maar dit wag maar vir eendag!

Hi Thea
Ja die geboue is besonders - die koepels is regtig baie blink en die ou geboue is meestal blou of geel - baie mooi en kleurvol.

Muriel said...

Ek geniet dit om jou inskrywings oor Rusland te lees, dit voel of ek saam julle gereis het.

Die kerk is asemrowend mooi!! Die boustyl is nog altyd een van my gunstelinge. Die Rusiese ortodokse kerk in Midrand is so klipgooi van my af met dieselfde boustyl en koepels, maar nie naastenby so mooi soos die detail en teëlwerk van die een in St Petersburg nie.

Nimsi se Blog said...

Dankie vir al die mooi foto's en goeie beskrywings daarby. Ek het nou lekker saam gekuier.

Jan and Miekie said...

Hi Muriel
Ja, dis nou een iets wat S.A. nie het nie en dis asemrowend mooi kerke... maar hier is kerke darem plekke van aanbidding. Daar is baie van die kerke (die meeste? die mooistes?) net "rowerspelonke" - toeriste aantreklikhede. Ons het baie om voor dankbaar te wees.

Hi Nimsi
Bly jy geniet dit. Ek moet dit maar blog, sodat in my joernaal verewig kan wees - dit was beslis die hoogtepunt van hierdie jaar vir ons.

mariki said...

En WAT 'n hoogtepunt!

Baie dankie -- dis 'n land met so 'n ryke geskiedenis waarvan ek so min weet.

Jip, ek stem saam met jou..."if only"...

Maar ek het my eie ene ok: "If only I had the money to do the same tour"...!!